In order to reduce induced drag as well as increase sail area and possibility to twist the new mainsail has a larger roach. A flicker to lift the backstay was the solution and a popular one at that. This, in turn, required a dyneema backstay, light enough.
Furthermore, trimming the rigging is something I avoid if possible as I find it very unpractical on such a boat as Veloce as well as very hard to get right. An alternative way to increase forestay tension is with a better adjustable backstay.
Veloce used to sport a double commando adjustable backstay which to be honest, not only was impossible to utilize actively shorthanded with its positioning above the transom, but it also remained unlocked on the leeward side after a tack. This meant that after tacking I had to reach the “wrong” side of the double commando, before being able to re-tension. Last but not least, the double cascade made it impossible to mark max tension and additional “speed” positions.
So in summary, here is the rationale to rebuild my backstay:
- reduced need to adjust shrouds tension
- greater precision
- lighter standing rigging
- larger roach
Solution to all of the above problems: a flicker on the masthead to lift the backstay, a new backstay in dyneema, single commando (providing reduced weight on the flicker as well) and much longer cascades for increased tension.
A traditional flat flicker on the top would have required moving all instruments (anchor light, wind indicator, anemometer). I then found another type of flicker sold by a local Swedish rigger, Benns, which could be installed on the side of the masthead. This however required a space of at least 10 cm which was not possible and it would have ended up on top of the backstay attachment. The solution was mounting the same flicker on the mast top as a traditional one, but it only required re-fitting the wind indicator. Following the instructions and using the drill coming with the flicker was a piece of cake.
As I mentioned, the wind instrument had to be refitted and it was easily achieved by purchasing a 2x10cm x3mm aluminium plate from a common local hardware store, bending it in 90 degrees angles as in the picture and fitting it on top of the flicker.
The first part of the backstay was a dyneema rope sk78 braided in 12 threads by FSE Robline called D12 in the same diameter as the wire backstay, 5mm (it has a slightly higher breaking load – 2356 kg – than wire for a fraction of the weight), 3 meters longer than the wire to provide marginal length for splicing. I spliced one end with a Brummel Eye splice and bound it to the masthead with a Girth Hitch to have equal load on the entire eye.
The other end was spliced on the spot by my sail-maker so that the cascade 32:1 was finely adjusted for the trim I wanted to achieve.
The result was a very light backstay that allows me to increase mast-bend up to 26cm with one hand, which is exactly what the mainsail is designed for. Forestay tension increases dramatically and sag disappears almost completely, whilst the upper part of the main sail becomes very flat.
I don’t have figures to compare from the previous set up, but I could sail short handed close-hauled with a TWA of 40 degree in up to 17 knots wind and heeling never over 25 degrees, which is of course over the optimal heeling angle, but acceptable to keep the boat on course. Definitely not something which was possible with the previous set up without hiking and without overpowering the rudder.
